Namibia is a land of extreme contrasts, with horizons that never end, peculiar flat-topped hills rising out of parched deserts and places where the ground simply disappears without warning into immense chasms. Not only does it have some of the world’s greatest natural wonders, but it is populated by fascinating people, like the Herero in full Victorian dress and Himba clad only in skins and glowing with ochre body-butter. There can be no greater juxtaposition than seeing these tribeswomen walk past each other in a town, where supermarket signs and cellphone billboards proclaim the modern world. Namibia can be a little mind-blowing!
The Capital City of Windhoek is more sophisticated, and you are unlikely to see a greater assortment of intricately plaited hairstyles anywhere else in Africa. The second largest town of Swakopmund, on the Atlantic coast,makes no attempt to flirt with fashion and relies on its past for its appeal. Swakopmund was once the jewel in the German Protectorate of South West Africa and its name of “Little Bavaria” still fits, with Germanic architecture dominated by clock towers, turrets and steeply pitched roofs. Swakopmund may seem stuck in the past – like serving German draught beer in ridiculously tall glasses and plates of eisbein and sauerkraut that no normal human could finish – but as a holiday destination it’s kept up with the times as the adventure capital of Namibia. Activities focus on the desert, which surrounds the town on three sides and desert tours reveal the fascinating eco-system and creatures within it. Quad-biking in the dunes, on the other hand, is all about sheer exhilaration with roller coaster manoeuvres on the crests of 50-metre high sand dunes. Then there’s skydiving, helicopter rides and scenic flights along the coast past the 100,000-strong Cape Cross Seal Colony and along the desolate Skeleton Coast to bear witness to the number of shipwrecks.
There is however, one sea-based excursion that should not be missed in the neighbouring port of Walvis Bay (Whale Bay), where Dr Doolittle boat skippers call the seals, birds and dolphins to come and play, and they do! Lured by fishy treats, huge Cape fur seals leap right into the boat and sit on the bench; gulls squabble for fish thrown into the air and pelicans glide gracefully beside the boat, rarely needing to flap their 1,8 metre wingspan. Then it’s the turn of the dolphins, who are summoned to bow ride the speeding boat by some loud engine revving. Top this off with oysters and champagne in the bay and you have a boat trip unlike any other.
This is just the start of Namibia’s extraordinary attractions; next is the eerily enticing sea of sand at Sossusvlei (take a short flight rather than a long desert drive), which ranks as one of the most awe-inspiring sights I have ever seen. It is said, “the older the dune the brighter the colour,” from slow iron oxidisation and a billion minute fragments of garnets. As dusk approaches, you can watch the dunes change colour from burnt orange through red to deepest mauve. The feminine crests and curves of the dunes rise tantalisingly to an astonishing 300m, making them the tallest in the world, 100m higher than their nearest rivals in Arabia. They just beg to be climbed barefoot, so take my cue and throw off your shoes and let your feet sink under the baking surface into cooler sand, then march to the top.
Imagine floating above this landscape in a hot-air balloon or a romantic dinner under a dazzling desert night sky, so clear you can see shooting stars and satellites every few minutes. This is a reality when staying at one of the beautiful lodges, like Sossusvlei Desert Lodge and Little Kulala, situated on the fringes of the dunes, where luxury doesn’t get any more remote or peaceful.
This land of sun, sand and big skies still has still more contrasts for you, with the Big Five animals inhabiting one of the largest game reserves in Africa; Etosha National Park. If you are ever going to witness a mirage it will be here, as you stare across the huge shimmering salt pans into a heat-haze that plays tricks with your eyes. In dry months, animals congregate at the man-made water holes, often dominated by huge herds of elephant, but in the rainy season (anytime from Dec through to April), this hostile plain metamorphoses into a rich organic lagoon full of flamingos.
No other country shows off nature’s capabilities better than Namibia, and while other places leave you with memories, Namibia leaves you with feelings. Deep feelings that come from having journeyed into a strange land full of contrasts. It’s a unique country, often harsh and unforgiving, sometimes enigmatic and surprising but always beautiful. If nothing much has blown your mind recently, I think it’s time to plan a visit to Namibia.
If you would like to experience Namibia please contact Timeless Africa Safaris on
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
now to arrange your special trip!