Mountains and giants: Rwanda emerges from the mist

THE EXPERIENCE
The gorillas in the Virunga Mountains are what bring most people to Rwanda and then they discover all the other wonderful aspects that make it such a memorable destination. Start in colourful Kigali, with its urban high-rises backed by jungle: uber modern meets wilderness; gentle, welcoming people living globally-connected lives alongside genocide museums and traditional handicrafts. Then you leave the city for the scenic route north where the gorillas reside. With less than 800 left in the wild, their protection is paramount and spending time up close with them is a real privilege. What is really rewarding is that most of the money is given back to the community and you can see the positive impacts on their lives with your poacher-turned-conservationist guides, the many clinics and schools, and the pride the local people have in their gorillas.

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On the morning of your gorilla encounter, you are appointed a gorilla family and trekking to them varies from 20 minutes to several hours through dense jungle, depending on where they are. All memory of the trek dissolves once you sit down next to a family of gorillas and see them feed, play, groom, snooze and carry on with their lives all around you. Each group is headed up by a 200kg plus Silverback and you’ll experience a thrill all the way down your spine, as he looks you in the eye with an all-too-human quality. While initiating physical contact is strictly forbidden, it’s not unusual for some of the more curious youngsters to come right up to you. All of these make for memories and photographs that you will treasure for years to come. As you walk back elated, don’t forget to lift your eyes every so often to see the stunning backdrop of volcanoes and cloud-covered valleys, the mystical home of the last remaining great primates.

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TAS TIPS

  • Some of the finest coffee in the world is grown in Rwanda – don’t miss it
  • If you’re a walker, you can hike to one of the crater rims for majestic views of the Virungu Park when you’re not visiting the gorillas
  • For your gorilla trek, wear well-worn-in walking shoes
  • Take time to put down your camera and experience the gorillas – you only have one hour each day
  • Take pens and pencils to give to the village kids
  • Woven baskets are amazing at the local markets and make for wonderful gifts
  • Rwanda is easily combined with a more traditional safari, either in East Africa or Southern Africa