One of our senior travel consultants, Belinda Lamprecht, recently visited Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania on an epic tour of East Africa’s most enriching wildlife experiences. Here she shares the highlights from her trip and her top tips for getting the most of our of this diverse destination:
Rwanda
Starting in Kigali, the gateway to Rwanda, you are immediately struck by the rolling green hills, sparkling clean streets and energy of the city. Most visitors pass right through on their way to a gorilla trek or safari, but a visit to the Genocide Memorial is a must. It’s a moving testimony to this country’s past that the Rwandan people have courageously overcome.
We then headed out to the Virungas, a relaxed 2-hour drive, which makes it obvious why Rwanda is referred to as the “land of a thousand hills.” Locals cultivate the lush green hills and you are greeted along the way by locals with friendly smiles. There are an ever-increasing number of lodges to choose from where you can do the gorilla trek. Whilst the Virunga Lodge is a bit further away from where the gorilla trekking starts, the lodge’s setting on a high ridge with stunning views of the Virunga Volcanoes and the Musanze valley to the west and Lake Bulera and Ruhondo to the east, must be one of the most beautiful on earth. This is a lodge where one should stay a while. Apart from gorilla trekking, guests can also go golden monkey trekking, visit Dian Fossey’s grave, hike a volcano, go on a crater trail, watch an Intore dance performance, hike to Lake Bulera, walk through the nearby villages, and enjoy a complimentary massage.
A highlight on my trip was dining in the Dian Fossey Map Room at the lodge joined by vets from Gorilla Doctors, which one can arrange prior to arrival at any of the lodges in the area. The veterinary team provide invaluable care and since their involvement, the gorilla numbers have steadily increased. The Virungas now have just over 1000 mountain gorillas. Mountain gorillas have a fighting chance for survival if we continue to work to address conservation challenges, and the gorilla permit fees goes towards this vital work.
It was an early start for gorilla tracking in Parc National des Volcans, through bamboo forest and jungle on the slopes of the Virunga range of volcanoes. The trek is done at a slow and steady pace and duration can be anything from 1 to 3 hours. But as with any wildlife encounter, the gorillas can be unpredictable and the family we were assigned to visit, decided on the day to make us work a bit harder. After a 3-hour trek, we finally caught up with the gentle apes. With only 96 permits issued per day, it really is an incredible privilege to spend time with one of Earth’s most endangered species in their natural habitat.
Uganda
A country of stunning green, hilly landscapes, lakes, mountains and rural villages, Uganda has a range of diverse national parks such as Murchison Falls or Queen Elizabeth National Park known for big game viewing safaris, chimpanzee trekking and river cruises. But, of course the gorilla trekking is what most people come for, especially if traveling on a budget (the trekking permits are not as steep as in Rwanda). Gorilla trekking can be done in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park and Mgahinga National Park, set at the base of the Virunga Volcanoes. It is from the stunning location of Mount Gahinga Lodge, that I did the Golden Monkey Trek. The Bamboo Forests of the Virunga Volcanoes (Rwanda & Uganda) is the only place in the world where these beautiful primates are found.
At Gahinga Lodge, you can also learn more about The Batwa people – the indigenous pygmie people of the Volcano massif who were relocated from forest life in 1992 as land was reclaimed to expand the shrinking gorilla habitat. The Batwa Heritage Experience offers an interactive tour of the cultural and history, where one is given insight into their traditional life in the forest. Whilst not as sophisticated at Rwanda, the tourism offering here is improving rapidly. It is a stunningly beautiful country, with charming people and a rich culture.
Tanzania
From Kigali, we fly via a quick immigration stop into the Serengeti’s Western Corridor for our stay at Legendary Nyasirori Tented Camp; a classic tented camp which moves its location with the migration ensuring a prime spot to witness the spectacle throughout the year. The camp is off the beaten path set on a private concession within the park and you can enjoy private safari drives in the park, but we could quite easily have spent the entire time at the water hole, where there was plenty of action. This is a perfect introduction to the authentic classic explorers’ style of safari; the standard of guiding is very high, and you enjoy comforts such as electric lighting, battery-recharging stations and Wi-Fi access and luxury tented suites featuring en suite bathrooms.
We then flew to Kogatende for our stay at Legendary Serengeti Mobile Tented Camp. This is migration central between July to around early November, as it is then positioned to view the dramatic river crossings in the northern Serengeti (the camp follows the migration as it moves south and west during the year). With a limited number of tents, and each party assigned a private safari vehicle, you are ensured an exclusive experience. A luxurious, yet adventurous stay with classic tents and bucket showers, activities include daily drives, where you can stay out all day in the hope to see that iconic river crossing.
A short flight takes us over the stunning Lake Victoria and onward to the Selous. Azura Selous is the perfect slow safari destination and an ideal combination with the Serengeti. After the rush of the migration, Azura Selous is luxurious and private. The tented villas are set in a remote part of the Selous Game Reserve, so you are guaranteed to be the only vehicle at a sighting. And what sightings they are! This is ‘Carnivore Central’ with wild dog, lion and leopard aplenty, in addition to elephant, hippo and buffalo and much more. Set on the banks of the Ruaha River, you can watch the hippos play from the comfort of your private plunge pool, but a variety of activities are offered – day and night safaris, walking, boating, tiger fishing and in-room spa treatments. A speciality of Azura is also their wonderful variety when it comes to dining; bush breakfasts and dinners, refreshment stops on bush walks, and the best sundowner spots imaginable. Azura also has a selection of private island properties, and the Selous is easily combined with a luxury ‘Robinson Crusoe’ castaway break at Azura Quilalea Private Island.
This is just a snapshot of some of the varied and exhilarating experiences to be had in East Africa. There is much more to East Africa than just safaris, so tick off your bucket list items, but take your time and explore more.
